1999 Mid-Summer Night's Walk - The plan.

As last year we journeyed across the Grampian hills from Braemar in Royal Deeside to Dalwhinnie, this year (1999) we will start at Dalwinnie on Friday 18th June at 10:00hrs then continue through to Fort William, using the old thieves road.

This year we will cover the 43 miles (69km) at a more leisurely pace and expect to take some 25 hours.

Leg

Km

Hrs

Dalwhinnie station to Ben Alder lodge - forestry track

8.5

2.42

Lodge to Boathouse shed - rough track

3.3

1.36

Shed to Culra Bothy - path via Loch Pattacle beach

4.5

1.62

Bothy to Corrour shooting lodge - path

13.25

4.74

Lodge to YH - track on south side of Loch Ossian

5.3

1.77

YH to Corrour Halt station - track

1.5

0.50

Station to Creaguaineach lodge - track alongside railway

6.25

2.08

Lodge to Luibeilt - path

5

1.75

Luibeilt to Steall ruin - path

8

2.79

Steall to Polldubh - path then road

5

1.67

Polldubh to Fort William station - road or forestry track

8.5

4.25

Total

69.16

24.95

We will travel on part of the Thieves' Road. This was used by the Lochaber men heading east to plunder the fertile lands of Moray. This is a long distance route across the breadth of Scotland and the Grampian Mountains. The full road is 160km long traveling from Abernethy through the Ryvoan Pass to Glen More and Strathspey, down to Dalwhinnie and along Loch Ericht, across the Bealach Dubh to Ossian, Corrour and the head of Loch treig, and finally into Lochaber via the Lairig Leach or Glen Nevis.

This route contains the most remote country in the Central Highlands. From Dalwhinnie at the north end of Loch Erich the hill tracks are followed westwards for some 69km and not a road is crossed until you finally reach Fort William.

Starting at Dalwhinnie the route along Loch Ericht is a quite and peaceful 8km Land-Rover track to Ben Alder Lodge and the Boathouse. When it formed part of the Thieves' Road it saw many a skirmish whith the most famous being a running battle between the MacPhersons and the Camerons who were beaten back along the lochside.

This is an area to savour, where you can disappear for a week or two and barely discover its remote mountains, vast plateaux, sharp ridges and rock faces, its beautiful rivers and hidden lochans.

Past the great plateau summits of the magnificent Ben Alder and Geal Charn. A Land-Rover track goes from Loch Pattack to Culra Lodge, although it is undulating and rather bumpy. Beyond the bothy the path continues up the narrowing and increasing steep-sided glen. Although the glen of Uisge Labhair is the shortest route, it is very boggy.

At the north-west end of Loch Ossian lies Corrour Lodge. The lodge was built in the early twentieth centuary. Taking the right (West) track avoids the grounds of the Lodge and its cottages, through blooming rhododendrons and golden sycamores in autumn. On to the Corrour Station but we will take the useful short cut following down the glen of the Allt a' Chamabhreac and the rough track that decends to Loch Treig. The track undulates around the shoreline to meet the wide Abhainn Rath at the south-west corner of the Loch.

A bridge leads to the still-used Creaguaineach Lodge. Here we see the Stob Coire Esain and Stob a' Choire Mhheadhoin, and to the west the start of the Grey Corries, together with the Mamore, Aonach and Nevis ranges. In this wilderness, what a wonderful backdrop for the next section of the walk.

We will take the most magnificent of the two routes to Fort William from the head of Loch Trieg. Leaving for Luibeilt, following the south bank of the river the track becomes a grassy path crossing extensive riverside plains and can be boggy in places. At the head of the glen before the little bump of Tom an Elite the path turns 90 degrees left. Cross the Allt Coire a' Bhinnein and leaving the Aabhainn Rath can be awkward in mist due to the lack of features. Better to follow the Allt Coire a' Bhinnein upstream to the shed known as the Watershed (GR 238691). From the dam we may follow the Water of Nevis north to rejoin the path later.

The rough path does not improve until it leaves the river and decends, squeezed by the stunning Mamores and the spectacular Grey Corries. On towards Steall and the big 110m waterfall in the shadow of Ben Nevis.

Then you enter the Nevis Gorge, an astounding gorge through which the river races over enormous boulders. The path requires care until you get to the Glen Nevis Road and a 11km walk to Fort William. From Achriabhach there is an more interesting forest track to the Youth Hostel before crossing the bridge to the other bank and continuing into Fort William at the end of a great walk.

Fantastic - well that is the plan, now here is David's account of what really happened - next year we will be even better prepared for the wet and the midge - going to join us?

Glencoe Mountains
Coire Gabhail, or the Hidden Valley
MacDonalds of Glencoe
Clan MacDonald History
History of Clan Cameron
Clan MacPherson
Start of the road to the Isles
The West Highland Line
West Highland Way
Rannoch Area


Author: Colin Auld
Remember - leave nothing but footprints and take nothing but photographs.