We were keen to do an interesting walk before winter arrived. The forecasts indicated showers and gales were likely (wintry and 90 mph on the tops), but as we have so often been very lucky we decided to ‘go for it’.
Having kipped in Colin’s car overnight at Dalwhinnie we were determined to make a good start and enjoy whatever good weather that there was. We left the Ben Alder Cafe car park at 07:35 hours and wandered along the main road towards the Dalwhinnie distillery and we then turned sharp left to cross the railway by the level crossing to the join the A86 road as it starts to climb westwards. We then turned left along the old drover’s road to Feagour. The path becomes less distinct as we follow a valley along which the Alli an t-Sluie meanders. On the shoulder of Carn na Ceardaich, we leave the stream which now comes to us from the West and the wooden, solder like, pylons that carry the 33Kv power line into the distance. The weather was acceptable for the moment — it was windy and chilly but there were some bright sunny periods. We soon found ourselves passing through a deserted landscape with many barren, boggy and knobbly hills - over the wet watershed with its many streams - past Loch Caoldair and down through the trees to just north of Feagour on the A86. What a difference strolling through the quite forest compared to the previously open expanses and good views. It was good to hear the forest birds as we continued to decend. At about 11:55 hours on a sunny knoll overlooking a bend in the road we chewed on an early lunch as the mad motorists below accelerated past us. We then tramped a short distance north-east along the roadside (where Colin found a bright red white spotted toadstool -just as in the picture books) and in bright sunshine we then followed a forestry track across the valley, reaching Spey Dam at 13:10 hours. We were in the pleasant, well cultivated valley of our old friend, the River Spey. To us it seemed so much more lush and green than surrounding areas, with a business-like mix of arable farming and good grazing.
Here one of the most stunningly located sites in the Highlands is the Dun da Lamh hillfort, overlooking the straths of the Spey and Mashie, controlling the passes connecting the people of Badenoch to the North, the South and the West. The steep ridge afford natural protection together with a massive stone ranpart some 8 meters thick and standing 3 to 4 metres high. Typical of defences that surround Pictish royal sites of about Ad 300 - 800.
What a view looking West from Shirrabeg. As we travelled along the south side of the loch we met a very strong head wind and received the occasional soaking. All around us the showers were blowing through and there was a fair bit of low cloud about. In between the showers it was bright, bracing and colourful and we enjoyed watching the rain hitting the hills on the other side of the glen. We had the second half of our lunch at the head of the loch and managed a good laze in the sunshine. The country was wide open and pleasant and the cool weather made for some sharp and vibrant colours — there are countless greens and green textures — what a wonderful colour green is. .... Splot! - Er yes David, but I prefer it on the landscape.
Just after Sherramore we stopped for ‘a wee siesta’ just beside some trees and with a view down Glen Shirra. Our siestas can be the best bit of the day - we need a rest and we just drop down on the grass in the cool sunshine and drift off into a wee hazy world of own for a few brief minutes — bliss. Later we continued through Garvamore as the weather was grey and windy but thankfully not wet. Wade’s Garva bridge is still a fine sturdy structure, the speed and width of the Spey was remarkable. We made good progress up the Spey valley enjoying the traditional mix of Scottish weather until we came to the bothy at Melgarve (NN 463 959) at 18:10 hours. It was cold and wet so we called in at the bothy and there we met a cheerful group who were up for a ‘bothy weekend’ and were having liquid refreshments around a log fire. The roaring fire quickly dried us out and as we wanted to keep to our schedule, to their consternation, we took our leave (whilst they were debating who was going to make the cheesy pasta) and stepped out into the glooming, gales and driving rain.
We moved on up Wade’s bouldery road but we soon decided that we had done enough that day. Now, all the books say that you shouldn’t camp under a tree - rubbish! - we camped amongst a few hundred of ‘em! The wind was very strong indeed so we camped in the dry in a small clearing in a spruce/pine forest. Whilst it was soggy and boggy everywhere else it was fairly dry amongst the trees. The trees kindly provided us with all the comforts of home — foot rests, toilet roll holders, wardrobes etc. Whilst the gales hit new speeds and the tree tops roared we enjoyed an early night of peaceful repose and our tent remained undisturbed.
We had done 26 kilometres in 10 hours 35 minutes.
A military road built in 1731 and maintained as the highest public road in Britain for a century
We moved off at 08:05 hours. The wind had dropped but the cloud was well down on the tops and it was grey and cold. Soon we said ‘goodbye’ to the Spey and the delightful valley. We said that we would have to come back some day and complete our traverse of the Spey by finding the source. We then turned and headed up the rocky road towards the pass. As we drew near to the zig-zags the low cloud started to lift a little, we hoped against hope that it might continue lifting.
The view from our rest at the top of zig-zags was fabulous, the cool temperatures gave us sharp views right back to Laggan and Dalwhinnie on the far eastern horizon, it was stupendous. Yes, you had to ‘be there’, and, yes now the cloud had broken and was well above the tops. Yet again we had struck lucky with the weather -although it was chilly and the strong wind was cold the views were special. Need we say more?
We were soon over and through the Corrieyairrack Pass and we had great views to the north and east across The Great Glen. It was all very open and exposed, no doubt it could be an interesting challenge in winter months. Talking of interesting challenges, it was at this point that Colin received an SMS from his workmate Simon who was still sailing around Britain but was storm bound on the Isle of Mann. With cold fingers and streaming eyes due to the wind, he was trying to punch in a reply but I did not have to wait long for the question - er how do you spell Corriearrack? My map was ready for the reply.
Then it was downhill (more or less) into the sunshine and at the head of Glen Tarif we load tested one of Wade’s bridges (Colin sat on one parapet) and then, further down, we sat near a bailey bridge for our lunch at about 13:00 hours. Whilst we sat on the bridge abutments making quick inroads into our sausage rolls and tuna, we were entertained by cross-country runners hurtling past us - some of them were running up the track, which we had just ambled down, as if they were being chased by someone with machine gun. One runner apologised for disturbing our peace and quiet. Well we had had General Wade's road exclusively to ourselves for quite a few hours and had marvelled at the skill of the early road builders that had opened up the Scottish countryside without the use of machines.
We trundled on down in pleasant warmth finding time to discuss the relative merits of the positions of some of the electricity pylons and office computer systems. Strangely, we felt no urge to run anywhere. Then before we lost the view, had a short break to look back at the high pass.
We hit Fort Augustus at 17:30 hours to find the town bathed in warm sunshine.
Wade’s road has a rather rough poor ending on a back road just south of the town. From the end of the road we passed some excitable dogs to get to the relief of a rest on a seat at the cemetery, there the cows watched us with some suspicion before we walked the few streets to the car.
We had done 24 kilometres in 9 hours 25 minutes.
A brisk 50 kilometres had taken us over the watershed to the west and even
more opportunities for a good walk! Maybe the Great Glen Way
General Wade
The man credited in the National Anthem with the ability to frustrate and crush
rebellious Scots is also the man who brought the first proper roads to the
Highlands. Major-General George Wade was Commander-in-Chief of North Britain
from 1724 until 1740, during which time he had military routes across the
Highlands improved by building two hundred and forty miles of road and forty
bridges. Among these achievement were the roads negotiating the Great Glen,
Corrieyairack Pass and the
Aberfeldy Tay Bridge.
After the 1715 Jacobite Rising, the British Government decided to build a
network of forts, and metalled roads to subdue the highlands. Construction was
started in 1724 by General George Wade, and continued by his successor Major
William Caulfield, who was responsible for the greatest mileage of new roads and
bridges. The network they created revolutionised transport and communications in
the Highlands and has formed the basis of the modern road system in this area.
Wade's road over the Corrieyairack Pass linked Ruthven Barracks in Badenoch to
Fort Augustus in the Great Glen, and was completed in 1731. It is the only
surviving example where the original construction details can still be seen.
This is largely because it rises to 2,500 feet (769m) and is impassable in
winter. It went out of use after the modern, lower level road through Glen Spean
was built in the 19th century. With its bridges and dramatic hairpin bends, it
is a remarkable feat of 18th century engineering. In 1745 the Jacobite army
under Prince Charles Stuart used the Corrieyairack route on its way to England
General Wade' Report to
King George I - 1724, covering the Highland way of life.
General Wade's plan to
break the power of the Highland clans.
General Wade roads and
barracks
Ralia and the Wade Bridge.
