Sometime early in 2006 we looked at the map and saw that the far north was unexplored by QSW. Here was a challenge that we liked the look of.

Slowly a plan sort of fell into place - but we needed to do it this year, whilst we were still able to.

We soon decided that, being decrepit, logistical support would be required if we were going to do five days. So why choose five days and starting from Oykel Bridge? Well, considering annual leave, busy schedules, lack of fitness and a previous walk just to the south - it seemed about right somehow.

Logistical support? Colin persuaded his wife and daughter, both experienced in trekking the great outdoors, to er umm .....pick up the pieces.

THURSDAY 29 JUNE 2006

We relaxed with a quiet drink at the Oykel Bridge Hotel making sure that didn't over indulge ourselves on the eve of our big challenge (we left the over indulging to the hotel residents). We had a lumpy overnight rest in the car whilst the midges hung around outside preparing for their breakfast treat. 

FRIDAY

At 0605 hours we set off from the car with a horde of hungry midges in tow. It was grey but very warm and it seemed that the recent warm dry spell would continue. Soon the midges realized that we weren't stopping and they cleared off. It brightened up and there was a little breeze as we hurtled along the A837 road westwards. Within a short time we were breaking sweat.

We were fascinated with the road - no we're not tarmac geeks. The road was littered with the remains of frogs that had been squashed by the traffic - are there always that many frogs along here?  We made cracking progress along the green grassy valley and passed Loch Craggie at 0805 hours. We took our first laze of the day then turned up the track to Benmore as the weathered cooled a bit. Still going well we passed Loch Ailsh at 1040 hours.

We stopped for elevenses just around the corner from the last cottage. A cuckoo called, wasn't it a bit late for him to be about? Low cloud began to drive in quickly from the south-west and it rained a little, visibility was quite poor behind us. But the rain didn't last long.

After mislaying the track at the river crossing we found the good grassy track going uphill to the southern shoulder of Meall an Aonaich. On the way up this track passes the big bowl which holds Loch Sail an Ruathair, we knew there was a big coire in there somewhere but the cloud was in the way. On the shoulder of the hill we had a grand view back to the western seaboard. To the east open wastes spread (well waists do spread don't they?) across to the desolate head of Glen Cassley and beyond, to somewhere.

We skirted around the east side of the hill and the path took us to Loch Carn nan Conbhairean by 1505 hours, now the attempted rain had fully cleared and it was warm and breezy. Having left Oykel Bridge much earlier than planned we had arrived at our first overnight camp site rather early. The loch was in a rugged coire and contrasted with the open and desolate landscape that stretched across to nowhere in particular in the east. This was truly the 'backside of nowhere' and we had it all to ourselves. The terrain had changed to what we would soon realize is typical Assynt terrain - grey boulders, bogs, rough grass, bog cotton, heather and mud. We were fortunate that it was so dry and had been for some time - a couple of days in the rain around here could be somewhat depressing. The path had roughened up, twisting and turn at every hillock. This was as near as you can get to wilderness in Scotland.

Although there were some possible campsites around the loch we decided to keep going so as to gain as much as we could from our early start. But progress was now a bit slower as the heat had already encouraged a blister for Colin and, as we had a lot to do, he treated it carefully by exposing himself (it) to the elements at regular intervals.

Had we ever seen so much bog cotton? I doubt it.

We laboured along a contouring snaking path through this rough landscape and at about 1930 hours we came to a halt at about a kilometre short of Gorm Loch Mor (Big Blue Water?). We were both knackered now and somewhat disinterested in the finer points of the poor choice of sites available for the tent. Midges were about and so we launched the tent without ceremony and got into sleeping mode without delay. Although it was a windy night we had a good rest and we found our smokey midge coil (which was tried for the first time) to be very effective.

SATURDAY

At 0745 hours we had a slow start. It was dry and still and the sun was a big soft orange disc in the east. The coire and the silvery grey cliffs around Loch Bealach a' Mhadaich were spectacularly rugged - a superb sight. We waded across the river running from the loch outflow and at 0830 we sat contentedly on its north bank for breakfast and a spot of sun bathing. Eventually we meandered down through rough hillocks to get to the shore of Gorm Loch Mor by 0930. Then there followed a rough contouring exercise along the west steeply sloping banks of the loch, keeping just above the water line we soon built up a good sweat level. At the north end of the loch some lazing around on the rocky shore was called for.

After some landscape watching we attempted a rising route aimed at the path that climbs up and over the north east shoulder of Mullach an Leathaid Riabhaich. This shoulder forms one side of a wee ravine at the head of Abhainn an Loch Bhig which eventually flows into Loch Glencoul. After many false paths, rocky humps and lochans we eventually found a rising traverse, and passing by an eerie green lochan with a lone circling whistling plover patrolling its shores, we got onto the shoulder. In a strong wind and an incandescent sun the view back south across Gorm Loch Mor and thousands of shining lochans was incredible. To the north was the rocky amphitheatre that is part of the head of the glen that leads down to Loch Glencoul. It's larger than the map suggests.

After refreshment we crossed the floor of the coire, with layers of sinuous slabs to our left and God's pea gravel around us, to find a rising traverse onto the main plateau north east of Beinn Uidhe. This so called 'plateau' continued the typical Assynt lunar landscape that we had now got used - bog, grey rocks, humps, lochans, twisting paths - a real nightmare if the cloud is low. No map can even hint at the nature of this landscape.

It was grey warm and sunny when we got to the junction with the Inchnadamph path at 1450 hours, I think.

We then (very) reluctantly decided not to turn off to see the Eas a Chual Aluinn Falls, very dry weather (hence a lack of water?) and the two hours or more required to get there and back put us off of this. A pity really, but we were making good time and we wanted to stay on programme.

Over the hill we set off down the good path past Loch Bealach la Bhuirich at about 1650 hours. Quinag was up front and the sun was blindingly strong in fierce blue skies. We had left the worst of the bog cotton and frogs behind and the Assynt massif was now on our left. It was a grand situation.

We dropped down and by Loch na Gainmhich we renewed our acquaintance with bogs, bog cotton, rocks, heather etc. - this rough stretch got us to the A894 car park by 1830 hours. There the logistical support team provided very much appreciated relief in the shape of clean clothes, cheese rolls and ointments for sore bits etc.

At 1920 hours we set off again down the road to Kylesku and Colin unveiled his new walking technique on an unsuspecting world. After a liberal dosing of talc on the feet he had put on clean socks and sandals for the march down the road and with every step of the way he emitted puffs of sweet smelling white 'smoke' as he hurtled off into the distance. David had no way of keeping up with this 'new' man.

It gradually greyed over and about half a kilometre or so short of Kylesku the rain started and so, again without much ceremony, we hurtled the tent onto some rough roadside grass. At 2100 hours we were finished.

SUNDAY

It was still grey, dampish and quiet. There was low cloud all around but it wasn't raining so we were happy. At 0650 hours we put our best foot forward and soon got to the Kylesku Bridge - an excellent and appropriate structure that conveyed us over very still glassy waters. We turned off right past what seemed to be a high security establishment, or more likely the product of a severe paranoia, and took the low level track along the loch side.

It very was peaceful indeed as we sat by the loch looking west to Kylesku, another late cuckoo called out and oystercatchers, gulls and plovers answered back. Further along on a rougher section we stopped to watch a seal at play until he saw us - then he was gone. There were grand views south to Quinag etc. but although the weather was clearing a wee bit there was still a lot of cloud to lift off the tops.

We took the track up by the Maldie Burn and by the town water supply, past the water intake to Loch an Leathaid Bhuain. At about 1000 hours we stopped to augment our own water supply at the little landing stage.

As the weather continued to slowly clear the track took us up and up onto the high moors above the lochs. Eventually we joined the eastwards grassy track to the Bealach nam Fiann sheiling where the views were grand - Ben Stack and Loch Stack, Arkle and Foinaven, Loch More all spread out before us. There is always something special about high level walking and looking down across the landscape of lochs, forests, fields, roads, hills and farms.

After the steep drop down to Lochmore Lodge with the attendance of midges a seat at the loch side was indeed inviting. But Achfary was only five kilometres away and we hoped, in blissful ignorance, that there might be an outside chance of hospitality. So we marched along the road with due haste.

At 1345 hours we rolled into Achfary and it was our good fortune to find that the locals were running a tea room to raise funds for their cash strapped school. This was only the second year that they had done this - for one week only - and we happened to be there at just right time. The ladies were jolly and the tea, coffee, iced ginger cake and scones were superb. We fed well and enjoyed the excellent exhibition of local customs and crafts. It's well worth a visit.

An hour later we were wonderfully and happily replete - it is amazing what four or five cups of hot tea or coffee can do. We thrashed along the road to Loch Stack Lodge. Here we met up again with our support team who kindly restocked our provisions and helped us change our socks before we set off again.

It was now that David made a silly mistake (well he doesn't ever make a sensible one) - he put on his sandals in an effort to keep up with Colin. But his cheap jobs were no good and by Laxford Bridge he was suffering badly. Here, just to improve matters, overcast weather generated some rainfall and the midges attacked. Not only were his feet thumping with the thrashing they had just received but now the rest of him seemed to object as well. A kilometre further north we sat at the roadside looking across Laxford Bay. Nothing was going to prevent David from lying down very soon, and so the tent was thrown up on another rough piece of ground opposite a parking place, at about 1915 hours. Ah, bliss.

We had a good rest despite some distractions - we nearly gassed ourselves with the midge coil, the bedroom floor was lumpy, curlews and gulls screeched all night and the local drunk staggered and cussed around but somehow managed to miss us.

MONDAY

0620 hours and we had a cool midge type start. Again our smokey tent was effective. In the cool misty weather we hurtled northwards through lochan country and we reached the Rhiconich police station by 0815 hours.

Bemused hotel staff and tourists stood at the hotel windows to watch us yokels plod by (the yokels from oykel).

But David had jiggered his back. Somewhere along the road to Rhiconich Colin had sought 'relief beyond belief' in a wee gully and David waited by squatting on a small roadside boulder. On standing up from his bad seating posture a muscle in David's lower back went into spasm and his back locked up. Ouch.

Despite rests to sooth sore feet and his bad back David was now taking a maximum dosage of 'Co-proxamol' to control the inflammation. We arrived at Kinlochbervie in low cloud and misty rain at 1045 hours feeling somewhat sorry for ourselves. What a gloomy sight the town was - there was no sign of any café or other comforting establishment. Unsurprisingly the place was deserted. So after a huddle in the lee of a house wall beside the post office we turned up the Blairmore road and found the Kinlochbervie Hotel for tea and a warm up.

After a soft seat and a cuppa we continued on up the road. Colin contacted Logistic Support and they followed us with their next very welcome food delivery. We walked up into blue skies and sunshine, it was lovely and warm.

At Oldshoremore Logistics caught up with us and we had a welcome rest even though lying down on the ground was a very tricky exercise for David. Refreshed and restocked we reached the car park at the Blairmore road end at 1410 hours and we eagerly consumed some of our new rations. Despite the various aches and pains we were enticed onwards by the lovely weather, to our final meeting with Logistics at Durness on Tuesday afternoon.

We joined the 'tourists' on the sandy track to Sandwood Bay. It was a grand high level walk across heathery moorland skirting around desolate windswept lochans with little beaches and the five or six kilometres was soon covered. Warm sunshine, blue skies and a cool north wind cheered us on our way. The wide open seascape on our left was all embracing and a wonderful backdrop. At 1630 hours we arrived at Sandwood Bay - it was a noisy scene with atlantic breakers crashing onto a sandy beach framed by two sets of high cliffs.

After some typical seaside activities - paddling, jolly chat with other paddlers, happy snaps, sunbathing on some big flat rocks and a picnic - we walked along the beach at 1800 hours to continue our journey north. After wading the river and scrambling up some slippery patterned rocky slopes we left Sandwood Bay. (The rock patterns looked like a well known brand of lino). The view back southwards from the top of the slope was grand but Sandwood Bay was not quite as spectacular as its reputation had led us to believe. It was very pleasant indeed but there are better beaches in the Hebrides and on Orkney. Perhaps stormy or wintry weather adds to its charm.

Nevertheless we were delighted to have been there and now our trek across The Parbh to Cape Wrath presented the final interesting leg. All routes are trackless and across bog but the spell of dry weather would be a distinct help to us.

David's bad back had hardened up and he felt rather weary so Moses (Colin) led through the wilderness. Following his patented routing methods, by way of animal trods (animals know best), we contoured northwards taking the line of least resistance. Despite our weariness the rolling green hills of rough grass, heather and lochans gave good enjoyable progress and the cool northerly prevented overheating. The east shoulder of Cnoc a' Gheodha Ruaidh took us to the east side of Loch a' Gheodha Ruaidh and we tented for the night on dried bog cotton at grid reference NC255679. After some weary debate about the best way forward we made the best of a poor choice at this point just short of the Kelsgaig River at 2010 hours.

Taking our Horlicks was not straightforward. The cold wind gave Colin a bad fit of the shivers and David was so stiffened up with his back that he couldn't lie down to sleep until Colin pushed him over. What a pair. During the night a deer with a bad cough patrolled around the tent but didn't knock on the door.

TUESDAY

At 0530 hours David lurched out for his 'constitutional' - the pale blue cloudless sky was wonderfully eerily silent.

The sunrise, the green green grass, blue skies and the circling skylarks were a grand start to the day.

The rising sun warmed our tent and we enjoyed our breakfast of jellies and soft rolls as we quietly contemplated the day ahead.

At 0800 hours we started the final leg to the Cape. Again we contoured the hills and by way of a rising traverse and due diligence, of course, we got to our last hill by 1000 hours. On the way we passed by the perimeter of the MOD range which encompasses the hills at Loch Keisgaig, it seemed too nice a place for the squaddies and their pop guns.

On our last hill, Cnoc a'Ghuibhais, all was revealed. Cape Wrath was down before us and the green coast stretched back south to Sandwood Bay and disappeared eastwards beyond Durness. The big wide shimmering blue ocean horizon went on for ever.

We walked around the large cairn soaking it all up and took our photos contentedly. Our senses were assailed by the elements. We lay down and stared.

Then it was down to the road through a bog which would be very tiresome in wet weather, all the time swatting pesky large annoying flies that pursued us. Why did they congregate here? What a nuisance they were. We got to the road at 1100 hours and turned west towards the Cape for the final trudge.

It was hot and hazy as we rumbled along the road to the Cape and we finished our water on the way, hoping to replenish supplies somehow at the Cape.

We arrived at Cape Wrath at 1215 hours and took the necessary record photographs immediately. We joined the tourist throng for a fascinating look around the lighthouse and generator buildings. Because of his sore locked up back David found it a struggle to wait for the bus to Durness.

To allow for 'the unknown' we had reserved seats on the last bus of the day (the 'dummy run') but we managed to get a ride on earlier bus. One of the bus drivers kindly brought us some water and reassured us with 'don't worry we won't leave you'.

As there were additional bus runs it seemed that it was all too soon that we got on an earlier service. We joined a packed Mercedes minibus and we lurched, bounced and swayed our way along the twelve mile switchback road to the Durness ferry. David had to hang on for dear life as the bus was expertly hurtled along the rough road so that he might have a chance of unfolding and getting himself out at Durness. The bus swooped down a steep concrete jetty and stopped just short of the water.

Should you wish a boat and bus ride with a difference - go to Durness and travel through the MOD range to Cape Wrath. The private service is expertly run and will provide you with an excellent day out, one you will not forget.

After a while the fragile wee outboard motor boat somehow forced its way across the sparkling blue Kyle of Durness and we boarded for the final part of our journey. At the far side David narrowly avoided head butting the stone jetty when he stood in the rope as he got out of the boat. It was just too much excitement for the end of our walk.

Whilst the last couple of days were bit sore for David, Colin had got his blisters under control and so found the going good. Thus we were pleased to meet Logistical Support and gently rest on the soft car seats. After a sandwich we repined in a haze of contentment as the Logistical Support Team did the driving. There was the usual mix of emotions - delight at a successful completion in wonderful weather tinged with a little regret that it was all over far too soon.

The vital statistics of our trip are:
Day 1, Oykel to Assynt 23km planned - 29km actual in 13hrs25mins
Day 2, Assynt to Kylesku 23km planned - 16km actual in 13hrs15mins
Day 3, Kylesku to Laxford 29km planned - 25.5km actual in 12hrs25mins
Day 4, Laxford to GR255679 25.5km planned - 30.5km actual in 13hrs50mins
Day 5, GR255679 to Cape Wrath 11.5km planned - 9km actual in 4hrs15mins.
Total distance = 110km.